The Road to Hana (and Back)

It's been a couple weeks since we returned from Hawaii but I can't move on without sharing our story of the Road to Hana.

We did a lot of research before we left so we knew what to expect. I was a little concerned about car sickness so I took dramamine along with us. Otherwise, we felt prepared.

Our story began before the sun came up. It's highly recommended you get a very early start and plan for the drive to Haha to take the entire day. So up we were, looking forward to another adventure. The island was still waking up and I was right there with it. I remember slipping into the seat of our little Kia Soul rental, coffee in hand, while the sky slowly started to lighten over Kihei. It was 5:30 a.m., and we were heading for one of Maui’s most iconic adventures: The Road to Hana.

The plan for the day was simple — or at least it looked that way on the map: a winding (very winding) 64-mile stretch of road hugging Maui’s northeastern coast. I could not imagine why they said to plan for an entire day. But if you’ve ever driven it, you know it’s far from simple. There are 620 curves, 59 one-lane bridges, and an endless parade of waterfalls that you don't want to miss. Every bend revealed something new — bamboo forests, rainbow eucalyptus trees, and flashes of ocean through the ferns so bright it almost doesn’t look real.

Our first stop was Ho‘okipa Beach, just as the horizon began to glow. The air was cool and salty, and the waves rolled toward shore with a kind of majestic power that left us quiet. You could feel the rhythm of the island and the power the waves held. It was like they were alive. The light shimmering across the water made it seem like we were watching a dance. It was the perfect place to begin a day meant for slowing down and paying attention.

As we were standing there taking in this work of art by mother nature, Jim captured a surfer riding a wave. I don't think I have ever seen anything quite so spectacular. I've seen people surfing before but this was something different. This was magical. I just watched in awe wondering how it felt to be out there, riding that wave. The peace, the excitement, the sound of the waves.

Jim had downloaded a self-guided tour app before leaving, and I’m so glad he did. It was like having a cheerful local in the backseat, telling us when to pull over or slow down for a waterfall or sharing bits of Hawaiian history that really brought the land to life. I learned about the sugarcane plantations, and how the locals still gather fruit and flowers along these same winding paths. He told us about the many kings that ruled over Hawaii.

Back to the road: The road itself was often barely a lane and a half wide, curling around cliffs and blind corners. Most of the time there was nowhere to pull over — the forest on one side, a steep cliff on the other. So when a waterfall came into view, Jim would slow to a crawl or stop for a heartbeat so I could snap a photo from the window, both of us laughing at how impossible it was to capture it all.

Somewhere along the way — maybe after the fifteenth bridge or the fifth “wow, look at that!” — we stopped in Keanae at Aunty Sandy’s Banana Bread stand. And yes, it was every bit as fresh and yummy as people said it would be. It was still warm when we opened it. Buttery and baked right there near the ocean. The kind of banana bread that makes you want to quit your job and start a roadside stand of your own. Or just enjoy hers.

As we kept going, we reached the Wai'anapanapa State Park. We had to make reservations the day before and we had to go within our time slot. Jim picked the perfect time and we made it right on time. The park is known for it's black sand, blow holes and lava tubes. Mother nature is astonishing! (any yes, that is Jim trying to conjure up mother nature)

By the time we reached Hana, we felt like we had had a day of amazing experiences and sites we would never forget.

At the very end of The Road to Hana was Kipahulu. Stunning views, the Pools of Ohe'o (Seven Sacred Pools). It is actually past Hana but it's where most people turn around to go back the way they came.

So we were at the end of the road, but our day wasn’t done.We decided to take the back way home — the much less-traveled route looping around the island’s south side. Most rental car agencies warn against it, since parts are unpaved and weather can change quickly. In fact, most people who do it are in four-wheel-drive vehicles. We were not. We were still in our cheerful little Kia Soul, which suddenly didn’t feel quite so soulful as the pavement began to crumble beneath us.

For about twenty minutes, I really questioned our decision. The road narrowed to a strip of gravel, clinging to cliffs that dropped straight to the sea. And it was ONE LANE! Every turn felt like a scene from a survival movie. My hands were gripping the door handle while Jim stayed calm at the wheel, saying things like, “We’re fine,” and “Look at that view,” while I was thinking, This might be how it ends. I don't know if you can tell from these photos, but this is a one lane, dirt road with blind curves and drop offs with no guardrails!! But amazing, breathtaking views!

And then — just like that — the fear melted into awe.

The road became paved, it widened into about a 1 and a half lane road and the landscape opened up into rolling hills with the ocean stretching endlessly next to us. The light was shifting to that soft, late-afternoon glow that makes everything shimmer. The road felt modern but the landscape felt ancient. There were very few people on the road and we got to enjoy the ride. We even passed a little ole cow, perfectly at ease on the edge of the world, chewing lazily as if he was saying, You made it.

We rolled back into our Airbnb around 4:00 p.m., tired, and completely enchanted. It had taken us the entire day and there were a lot of stop offs that we didn't stop at.

But we found out that driving the Road to Hana isn’t about checking off stops or snapping the perfect photo. It’s about letting go of the rush, respecting the locals (always pull over and let them pass), and letting the island show you her many sides — wild, sacred, and breathtakingly alive.

My recommendation is if you ever find yourself on Maui, go early, drive slow, and pack patience. The Road to Hana isn’t just a road. It's an experience of sights, sounds, and yes a little adrenalin.